Ms. Trunchbull strikes again.

Well, it’s happened, school marm Mom has won herself a nickname, and it ain’t pretty. After a particularly frustrating Monday morning session where I battled with Lily for her focus earlier today, Violet, who was finished with her work but working hard to distract Lily so she’d have a playmate, came up with a stinger: Ms. Trunchbull. I doubt that most of you have read Roald Dahl’s Matilda, but for those of us who have, it evokes the kind of nasty in a Headmistress that is barely fun to read about, let alone live through. (Though Matilda is fiction, Dahl has most certainly drawn upon his own experiences in boarding school in England in the 1920s and 30s- think canes, whips and anything terrifying and purely ghastly to a 9 year old.) Let’s just say, I’ve clearly hit my stride in the teaching department. At least it got us all laughing, until of course, they segued into the Mr. Grinch song, when I had to put the brakes on. There is no way I’d live in a cave; it just isn’t me.

Lily’s ‘Why I oughta…” fist cracks me up.

Soooo, other than two-way educational mental torture (I promise, I haven’t laid a single cane on anyone on this trip), our big excitement has been in the form of eagle ray slaps. After sunset during the past two nights here off of Tahiti beach we’ve heard massive splashes in the water all around the boat. Andy and Lily took a spot light to the bow last night and aimed at a splash to see a giant eagle ray leaping out of the water and crashing back down again. Disarming, really. I later read that the reason isn’t exactly known, but thoughts are that it’s either a female eluding a male (ayuh), a move to escape a predator (an obvious choice), or the ray using the re-entry force to disengage remoras or other sucker fish (I’m not sold on this). Reasoning aside, we heard a story about a ray clobbering a woman who was just sitting in her cockpit, which is a visual both hysterical and terrifying all at once. They can grow up to 6′ long; that’s no small thing to land in your lap/on your face. Plus, stinky.

Mowgli before breakfast.
Giving the newest resort stop a kid once-over. (She said the grass was too hot, so it may have gotten a strike against it. Dang that grass heat.)

Yesterday, pre-ray action, we caught a ride with Sam and Kayda up the coast of Elbow Cay to a new restaurant that we wanted to check out. We towed our dinghy, and hopped out ‘on the side of the road’ to go our way while they went back into Hope Town. Though we didn’t eat, we did enjoy their view while the girls enjoyed their pool, and we then snorkeled for a quick minute on the junk pile they’ve used for a habitat close to their dock. The girls were thrilled to see a toilet on the bottom, and made sure that we all saw it before we left. (Lordy, doesn’t take much, I tell you.)

Violet out for a morning paddle, complete with her octogenarian’s visor. (No disrespect to octogenarians: the visor is CHIC.)

We then dinghied back south but tucked into the Abaco Inn Resort in White Sound on our way back to the anchorage. We met up with the Ruach crew there, and sea glass hunted on the beach, swam in the pool, had a drink under the gazebo and definitely took advantage of their fresh water pool shower. At this point, we could be publishing a cruising guide to ‘Saltwater vs. Freshwater Pools Accessible by Purchasing Beverages’ in the Abacos, with the added bonus of us telling you which showers are unlocked, which have key access only, and which are worth loitering outside of until someone comes out. Notable accomplishment on our part (Ruach is part of this!), if we do say so ourselves; well worth the ‘research’.

Just-sunscreened V looks a little ghostly, but they had a fun morning of swimming off of the boat.
A day of snorkel mask-wearing leads to a boat mullet: business up front and a party in the back.

Tomorrow we’ll head to Marsh Harbour to look at outboard engines (they’re much more affordable here, and 2 stroke, which is preferred), and then possibly anchor out someplace more remote. Since we plan to be back in Green Turtle on Thursday, we’re trying to take advantage of our last few times anchoring in clear waters on white sand, and being in Marsh Harbour with the murk of many boats doesn’t quite cut it for me.

Heading out to read in the cockpit- wish me luck for a ray-free evening!

 

Come Back in 5 Minutes

Bedtime in our house has never been a particularly difficult, drawn-out ordeal, but Chickadee bedtime breaks records for speed. At home we read to the girls, sometimes together and sometimes individually, and then we leave them to read to themselves. Lily usually makes it about ten more minutes, and Violet has been known to stay awake in bed for an hour or more, happy as can be with books, doodling pads or stuffies for imaginary games- it just takes her brain longer to wind down. About a month before we left she started a new request at the hug-and-kiss-goodbye stage where she asked me to “Come back in 5 minutes”. Since she doesn’t have a clock or watch in her room, I’d use a bit of mom-advantage and take my time, cleaning up downstairs, coming back in ‘5 minutes’ to see her again. The goodbye was the same: “come back in 5 minutes”. When I was near their room I’d poke my head in and either choose to show myself or not, depending on how close to sleep she was. Some nights she’d be so close, yet her stubborn nature still shone through, whispering with closed eyes and one hand held up from her slumber with all fingers waggling “5 minutes”.

Braids!

Fast forward to Chickadee, where Lily falls asleep at dinner most nights, and Violet has us brush her teeth half of the time since she can’t bring the brush to her mouth in her exhausted state. The “5 minute” gesture is laughable but oh-s0-sweet. She can barely get the words out before she dozes, and last night her ‘5-er’ hand up to me fell and slapped her own face as she spoke. (This all goes down most nights around 7:30, by the way, lest you think we’re torturing our children with midnight adventures… they play HARD.)

The guys setting and checking on our secondary anchors.

It was remarkable that they slept at all for our last Hope Town night, but sleep they did. We had set a second anchor for security in preparation for the 30-40 kt winds forecasted, but it was a sleepless night despite. The rain came in full force around 11pm, and a line squall blew through with a blast that felt like a Mack truck hitting us on the beam. It not only put us on our ear for a brief chaotic moment, but yanked our primary anchor out and left us with our secondary on the job solo. (Though we didn’t see the anemometer at the time (too busy holding on), we are guessing that it was somewhere in the 50-60kt range. It flipped Ruach’s dinghy with the engine on it, and we’re shocked that we didn’t lose any of the gear on our deck.) A bit of fiddling with rodes and another stiff gust and both anchors were reset as we could tell, but I was wired and proceeded to stay awake until about 4am when the winds died down. I stood in the companionway and watched the boat swing repeatedly back and forth between the two anchors, and the relative quiet and still of the morning was a welcomed relief.

The welcomed sunrise after a long night.

On Thursday we steamed into Marsh Harbour, where we enjoyed a on again-off again rainy day and tried to recoup some brain cells from our mental anchor-watch flogging. We’ve found that rum helps.

 

Beautiful Marsh Harbour rainbow

Yesterday morning we walked to the ferry terminal about a mile from the harbor here and met friends coming in from Hope Town and headed for the airport. It was a lovely recon mission for the rest of our day, and an even lovelier chance to see our friends once more.

Snowbutter, getting her breakfast order in.
One cool cat dinghying us ashore.

Recon to find a perfectly perfect perch for our post-schooling and work day: we raced back to the boat for a motivated session before heading to the Abaco Beach Resort, where we lounged by the pool complete with bridges, a swim up bar and comfy loungers. The entire resort was as immaculate as we’ve seen- the beach had a playground, corn toss, hammocks, kayaks for the using and a large chess board. We ate lunch on the pool deck overlooking the marina, and the kids swam for about 5 of the 6 hours that we were there. TGIF and hooray for ‘winter break’- even though we’ve had them do school all week despite their peers’ break, this was a treat to reward the effort.

Kids in the pool, pre-prune.

Today we’ll do a quick provision and diesel run and head to Sandy Cay for hopefully another snorkeling adventure today or tomorrow. After a few days roaming south of here, we’ll need to poke our way back north for preparation to cross.

For now though, I’ll be back in 5 minutes.

Hope Town, take two.

I feel like I’m in the big city all of sudden, tucked away in a coffee shop complete with baked goods and -gasp- internet! Sam and Kayda have taken the crew on a walking tour of Hope Town, which, as was pointed out, will largely be a who’s who of Mainers in Hope Town. I can’t get over how much of our state fills this little place seasonally, floating or otherwise. I certainly understand the draw- it has everything a boater or cottage owner would need, plus easy access to protected beaches in every wind direction, and snorkeling to boot. If we knew a winter of ours wouldn’t be focused on sailing, this is the place we’d hunker down to rent a house.

Some good old fashioned child labor. The girls helped Andy clean the boat in Guana.

Another front is on its way, and we’re happily dug in just outside the harbor channel to await its passing. After days of hot sunshine, it’s nice for everyone to have a bit of change, with the bonus of having an ‘official’ excuse to hunker down to craft, play games and watch movies. We’ll have our tour here this morning and then head back to the boats to do just that. Tomorrow, no doubt, it’ll be business as usual. We can’t miss too many days without beach house building, can we?

The flea market find continues to entertain/terrify.
A few more inches to go before this helmswoman has a clear view ahead.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We’re starting to think ahead to our upcoming projects onboard, and we’ve almost completely decided that this will be the year we haul the mast and replace the rod rigging. While we’d also love to paint the mast, cost will most likely be inhibitive, and we may opt to only paint below deck, so poo, there goes my drive for finishing my granny square ‘sweater’ for it. Eh, what the heck, I’ll probably yarn-bomb it either way when Andy’s not looking.

A Cedar visit for lunch and a movie.
Andy, delving into a cabinet to be able to assess the space/storage possibility for the space directly behind the toilet. We can’t let any space go unfilled now, can we? (I say: perfect Med Kit spot.)

Other projects will most likely be a new fixed bimini frame, and new canvas to match our new dodger. I’d also like to replace the cockpit cushions, which have started to spew their foamy innards despite my efforts to sew the pleathery seams closed. Our house batteries need replacing, and we are in desperate need of a larger, but lighter dinghy (so that we can still feel comfortable in our davits’ ability to haul with a subsequently larger engine). We have our eyes on an aluminum-hulled option, but as this list grows and the dollar signs start swirling in our brains, we have to ground ourselves to reality.

One by one, they buried themselves in sand. The resulting scalp situations were fun.
Andy and Sam.

After the storm blows through here in the next day or two, we’ll most likely make our way back south a bit, and attempt for some snorkeling again near Sandy Cay before making our way back north to our eventual ‘jumping off’ point for the crossing back. For now, we’ll continue to grab these last few weeks with a strong grip!

Hope you’re not eating: here we have our botanical teaching moment for the gang. This is the result of touching a poison wood tree, though Andy isn’t sure how or where he did. The supposed antidote is found in the sap of the Gum Elemi tree, which are often known to grow near Poison Woods, but alas, a)we did not know this at the time, and b)I forgot my machete for extraction.

On the ‘road’ again.

Back on the move once more, we left our Green Turtle post on Friday for Great Guana, where we anchored in beautiful Fisher’s Bay and the kids had their swimming and kayaking ‘playpen’ back once more. We went ashore and tracked down yet another Mainer, this time one from Southwest Harbor, and had a really nice visit in her wonderfully comfortable winter home. It’s so nice to make connections with the near (so many are within grasp at home, but paths are rarely crossed!) while far away.

Playing the ‘Townie’ game on the way out of White Sound.

 

School time in the Townie game.

 

 

 

 

 

On Saturday morning we hoisted anchor early to get trucking down island to catch the annual Man O War flea market, purported to be a big hit for young and old alike. It was a full morning of hermit crab racing, candy drops, flea market scouring and stuffing our faces. There weren’t a lot of craft vendors, so hey ho, maybe next year I’ll really boost my friendship bracelet and granny square stock and peddle my wares!

Excited to be at the beach in Fisher’s Bay.
Violet, watching her crab. Her first foray into racetrack betting didn’t pay out, but she was consoled by the fact that her crab’s shell had the coolest paint.
Poring over a flea market find on the way home.

Since we left Man O War yesterday after the fair, we’ve been luxuriating at the Orchid Bay Marina, where at 50 cents a foot, it feels like we’ve won the lottery.  It’s been nice to be tucked behind their breakwater for the most recent blow, and the pool is an added bonus, but we made the ‘unadvisable on a Sunday’ Sunday venture to the ocean side and Nippers Bar. (We weren’t trying to ignore sound advice, we simply limited by schedule.) It ended up being a chaotic but incredibly amusing lunchtime-and-beyond experience. We drifted in before the crowds, and had the pools to ourselves along with some groovy 50s and 60s tunes to bop our heads to. The music shifted forward in decade as time went on and the decibels increased. By the time we had moved to the decks to eat our lunch, we had Michael Jackson and Madonna to dance to while eating. (It was raining in fits and starts for an hour or so, and I’m only sorry that I can’t upload the video of Violet shaking her groove thing by herself under a dry deck while stuffing a grilled cheese in as fast as she could.) By the time we left, our ears were ringing, the current pop had the hoards packing the ‘dance floor’, and all we could think about is how people would safely make their way to their various destinations (most via boat) in their current states. In other words, mom-thoughts.

Violet’s flea market find, Poco, rode to Nippers in style.
Mad scientist Lily with the double-bury plot.

In addition to our beautiful anchorages and consistently fun activities, overall boat life is finding its easy and sometimes not-so-easy rhythms. Where I feel huge gain in some areas from last year to this, others have been tougher this time around. The former includes everything to do with familiarity of the boat itself- better use of storage spaces, a better handle on our usage of resources (water, fuel, propane, power), more comfort with the galley allowing for more meal variety and overall comfort of recognized patterns and routines with the details of Chickadee life.

The other piece, the frustrating piece, has been the schooling, though I must admit that recently a decent combination of shifting gears to a better boat-based curriculum and good old fashioned bribery has been a tremendous help. Frankly, we all feel like we need rewards for slogging through some of the tedium of getting your own kid to focus on what you have to say while their younger sibling is doing ‘fun stuff’. I have to remember that I am not in fact, a fourth-grade teacher, and that hopefully my kid won’t hold my lack of fourth grade teacher keep-it-together-ness against me as the seed of teenage anti-mom angst in later years, as my darker moments have caused me to envision. (If that turns out to be the case, at least I’ll have the ‘I saw that coming’ thought to keep my frustration company.)

For now, I’m sticking with simple gratitude for what we have here in this adventure and try to get my teachin’ game face on. The nurse sharks circling under our boats and docks in this marina may vary well be our ‘creature study’ tomorrow- easy peasy. After that, it’s gratitude that we’ve realized how much more beer we can carry than we originally thought. Balance!

 

Waiting out the ‘stahm’..

Gillam Bay ‘house’.

After a great ending to our visitors’ time here, we waved goodbye to them as their ferry steamed out of White Sound, and then we were back to our regularly scheduled schooling and work before play.

Mike, looking a bit fearful after Violet’s “I don’t know how to drive, Mom” admission.

 

Happy Valentine’s Day! V’s face is priceless- the kid LIKES candy.

Andy went spear-fishing for lobster with a few fellow White Sound-ers while the girls and I went to the Ocean Beach and played in the waves. (We actually saw the dinghies out on the reefs, catching our dinner, which was fun.) We girls came home with plenty of sand from the beach, and he came home with five lobsters, which was a nice addition to our dinner.

Ocean Beach ‘house’ with its ecclesiastical entrance.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sometimes you come upon a treehouse. (It is imperative that you climb it.)

And while we’re not plowing and shoveling 40+” new inches of fresh powder (hmm, shucks..), we are tucked in waiting out a stiff blow. Safely in White Sound on Green Turtle, yesterday was an amusing rodeo show watching boats dragging, rescues and the like. Even after we went to bed we were awoken to the sound of people rescuing their dinghies with kayaks, rescuing items flying off of decks with dinghies, and rescuing and righting who knows what else. This morning it was a steady stream of boats heading into the marina, no doubt to take a stress-relieving break with the relative comfort of a marina tie-up. (Dan actually told a great story of a man flopping back in his cockpit with a loud sigh of relief after tying up -no doubt after a sleepless night of dragging and the accompany stress- a well-earned marina stay!)

Today’s wind and weather kept us close to home, and after some school-time dominos, we made just the short hop ashore to the Green Turtle Club. There we did one last load of laundry (in anticipation of our departure tomorrow) and let the kids play with a gang of kids from two other cruising boats, who they have loved getting to know over the past week or so. Many superhero games were played, Lily and new friends ‘saved’ some free-ranging chicks from free-ranging neighborhood cats (we’ll see how long that lasts, predator-prey relationship being what it is), and we adults chatted and finished up our chores.

A tough opponent.

The forecasting for us this winter hasn’t been the most accurate of predictors of actual weather, so we’ll see how the seas are laying down tomorrow as the winds slowly die off, and hopefully it’ll be good enough for a decent ‘whale’ crossing and on to Guana. A friend in Maine once equated meteorologist to gypsies, which resulted in a great (and admittedly completely incorrect) image that has since stuck in my head of weathermen and women everywhere tossing a fistful of options written on pieces of paper into the air and seeing which would stick to the wall. Here it is simply wind strength, direction and patterns that we care about for the short-term, and I keep picturing some man on the ‘power’ end of these wind and weather sites using a Plinko board to come up with the next day’s data. Lordy, I hope I’m wrong.

Bear in the Bahamas

Another few days in the Abacos have passed, which has meant that another full run of activities have been tackled by Salvio.

The newest Chickadee game: hide and seek. Violet is counting without the pesky option of peeking.

We didn’t end up motivating for the Manjack full moon party, since another new beach find at sunset added to the bogging idea of gearing up to leave the harbor on a Friday night family movie night, but we did hop over there first thing Saturday morning.

After a mangrove exploration to see the dozens upon dozens of sea turtles in the shallow waters wending their way through the mangrove maze, we landed on a beach owned and lovingly offered by Sam and Kayda’s friends. Swings, hammocks, beach toys, and a beautiful flock of healthy chickens were showcased on the beach itself, and a tour of the property above (led by a Seal Cove native, no less! We MDIslanders are just about everywhere) blew our minds with the thoughtful detail in every turn. Goats for milk, chickens for fresh eggs, fruit trees everywhere, a beautiful garden that had us all drooling, an open air workshop, orchid collections on display and sweet pockets of landscaping everywhere that made it a true island paradise in all of the ways consider paradise.

Getting our chicken time in, since we miss our girls at home.

The fact that this couple welcomes cruisers to use their spaces as needed is just so kind and gracious. In return, they must be acquiring some amazing stories from their visitors in these years of ‘trespass, please’ offerings.

Turtle spotting in the mangroves of Manjack.
Allen monster.

Sunday morning we dinghied back to the mangroves to say good morning to our turtle friends, and additionally saw sting rays, eagle rays, and a couple of small sharks darting on and off the sand bank that we landed on to explore the bolder east coast.

 

On our return we realized that the slide had been installed on the dock for the kids, so we jumped over to take advantage. By 11am we’d had more ‘Sunday-ing’ than we could have imagined!

We then hustled back to Green Turtle to prepare for the arrival of Mike and Frosty, MDI friends escaping the heaps of snow in Maine to enjoy the Bahamas for a few days of their vacation. Not a bad plan, really. One interesting bonus of our Green Turtle guests were the goodies that they brought- due to weather, their cache of frozen seafood and game meats requested by Mike’s daughter couldn’t be delivered to her in Boston, so voila! bear on board! As we happily ate our bear dinner, we surmised that it could be the first time a black bear has been in the Bahamas. (We’re glad it made the trip- deLISH.)

Sunset cribbage.
Sunset deck showers.

Yesterday we gave the girls their first ‘snow day’ pass from schooling and headed back to Manjack in the morning, this time to another bay known for its tame sting rays, thanks to the tour operations that feed them. It did not disappoint- we were greeted by a huge Southern stingray that preceded to bump itself into our shins, hoping that we had a snack. (We did not, but we were grateful for the sake of our picture-taking session that it didn’t seem to realize this.)

 

 

 

 

 

Bahamian sea star.

 

Manjack beach house.

 

 

 

 

 

Another night here in Green Turtle, and with another front coming through tonight into tomorrow, we’re going to stay here until Friday, when crossing ‘the whale’ will be more pleasant, after which we’ll head to Guana Cay for a night before going to a big flea market on Man O War on Saturday.

Happy Valentine’s Day, all!

 

Mud, and Sharks, and Dragging Anchors, Oh My!

We’re still in White Sound on Green Turtle Cay, and I have to say, my wanderlust is being overridden by the continuously new finds we’ve made since we’ve been here.

On Wednesday after school we battered our way around the point between White and Black Sounds by dinghy to a public dock close to Gillam Bay beach, our favorite from the last visit. After lounging on our part, and more ‘home’ building on the kids’, we treated ourselves to a stop at our original GTC haunt, the Leeward Yacht Club, for a sundowner by the pool, and subsequently a fresh-water rinse for the kids and any adults who wanted it (which reads as everyone but me: 45 lbs of hair on this head of mine makes for a process for washing, and I’ve found a fairly low-water method in the comfort of our own head/shower).

This addition to our day began another component of our daily scheduling, which is perfect, if I do say so myself: sand them up and exhaust them at a beach, and ‘clean’ them off in a pool while we enjoy cocktails!

The cleaning part was essential for yesterday in particular, and thankfully the crashing surf played its part straight away, as Lily decided that she’d take a mud bath while we waited for the Ruach crew to come ashore.

Do NOT mess with this one.

The Ocean Beach on the ocean side (I know, crazy…) was our home for the afternoon; the surf made for good boogie boarding, and yet another upturned casuarina made for a good beach home for what we now know is the Family Game.

Sam and Kayda walked down to join us, and Sam made Violet’s day by providing a human framework for her preferred method of deeper water wave jumping. He then pretended he was a shark and chased the kids around the surf, while up on the blankets, Kayda told us stories of real shark sightings over their years of cruising and snorkeling through the Bahamas.

Sam-shark with the kids.

The stories didn’t scare us by any means- shark sightings are an inevitability here. We’re in their home, so it would make sense to see one from time to time. (We all have our stories of sightings while snorkeling or diving, don’t we?) It was just certainly a timely conversation, because not 30 minutes later, Andy and I were standing at the edge of the water, watching all four kids playing in the surf once more, when a giant shadow  came their way. Andy shouted at the kids to get out, we physically helped to haul them out, and we watched the shark go as fast as it had come. It was probably a 6 footer if we had to guess, but I imagine that number will get higher and higher as we retell the story, since what good story starts with a measly 6 foot reef shark? (We didn’t see it clearly enough to be able to identify it, but that’s my guess..) Anyway, 6 feet was enough feet for me to have goosebumps, especially considering how close it was to eight precious legs.

Walking home from the beach Andy ran up from behind the group I was walking with to say that he’d gotten a text from a neighboring boat that Chickadee was dragging. (What amazing timing that on our way to the beach we’d stopped and exchanged boat cards with this particular boat. (It is a beautiful Jarvis Newman hull that we’ve been admiring for a few harbors now.)) Andy ran, and I walked on, picking up my pace when I caught sight of our bird, almost cozying up to a large motor yacht that had previously been more than an arm’s reach away. Dan ran me out to the boat in his dinghy, and Andy and I hauled up our anchor, which had a chunk of grassy sod on it that ironically probably doubled its weight. (White Sound is mostly grass, and though we were careful to try and drop the anchor in one of the few sandy patches, we were clearly on the edge of it enough so that when the wind shifted yesterday we dragged just enough out of it to cause us to take a walk across the harbor.) The harbor had by then filled in enough with the front coming through (last night into this morning) that we didn’t want to risk finding another good ‘hole’, and picked up a mooring instead. Though our anchor and 200’+ of chain available is more comforting to us than an unknown mooring, we were assured that the ground tackle is in good condition, and here we now safely sit. We’ve never had an unmanned dragging situation happen to us before, so let’s hope that we’ve checked that one off of our list for good.

After that show, we resumed our activities by dinghying across to the Bluff House, which had our ‘necessary’ components- pool + bar. Sweet relief.

Bluff House acrobatics.

Today we head to Manjack Cay for their full moon party. One particular cove has property owned by friends of S & K’s, and we’ll hopefully do some good exploring there, both on shore and on the water.

Now back to the supervision of schooling, for which I have to say with true meaning: TGIF. Though we are plodding along, still moving forward, with a sense of accomplishment for their uptake and productivity, my patience is shot with an increasingly distracted/distracting and sulky version of school-time Lily. I sense that it’s a phase of 99% testing me and 1% exhaustion, but holy jeepers, let me have the strength to not bury my head in the sand until it’s over. Which, of course, is all I think about doing. (I just hope that I remember my book when I go under.)

Love to all, especially those of you northerners shoveling out from under your new inches!

 

Role reversal.
Hungry kids under a full moon.

Reunited (and it DOES feel so good!).

After Day Two of the dance of ‘gathering stuff’ in Marsh Harbour (propane, groceries, beer, definitely not in order of importance), we hauled anchor yesterday and had a great sail back to Green Turtle. Our dear friends Sam and Kayda had launched their boat Solstice for the season a few days before, and we have another couple taking a side trip from their Florida vacation to visit us here in the Abacos for a few days, also in Green Turtle. Win-win!

Keeping herself busy on an erranding walk in Marsh Harbour.
A fine hat.

Though it puts us here for almost a week straight, and our newly-nomadic patterns might have us a bit twitchy by the end of it, I have the faith that we’ll find plenty to keep us busy. Once the front passes through by Friday, we’ll head out to explore a bit for on the nearby cays dotting the landscape around Green Turtle- Manjack Cay for beach and island exploration, No Name Cay for witnessing the bizarrely Bahamian swimming pigs phenomenon that we keep hearing so much about, and back to our favorite Gillam Bay.

Wing on wing for the downhill run.

On a swimming pigs note… huh?! The images in my mind are so conflicted- are they always just swimming in circles in the bay? Does anyone go to see ‘beach combing pigs’ in the afternoon? Resting pigs at dusk? And why pigs? Who brought the first batch to the beach and discovered their love of swimming? We’ve heard time and again that they’re aggressive, so what’s the allure in watching nasty pigs swimming around if they’re going to come and slice up your dinghy looking for handouts? As you can see, I’m not sure where to put this on my ‘to-do’ list, but it’s definitely lingering there in the wings.

For now we’ll occupy ourselves with school and planning our afternoon play session. All in a day’s work, pigs or no pigs.

Coco Bay on Green Turtle.
Fortifying the fort.

Marsh Harbour

Leaving Little Harbor on Saturday, our main goal was to snorkel again, since our first taste was so good but too small. We anchored off of Sandy Cay and took a semi-battering dinghy ride to the moorings right on the reef. Complete success- I practically fell in on top of an eagle ray, and the sightings from there remained impressive. Violet and I had a little loggerhead come close enough to just about ask us our names, more eagle rays, a huge Southern sting ray and its smaller sidekick, pufferfish, a wide variety of coral and beautiful iridescent colorful reef fishes galore. The Ruach boys even saw a nurse shark on their path.

Violet goes sans snorkel, and is one intrepid fish out there. She accidentally got into the water with her life jacket on, which I thought would have been fine for her, but she quickly took it off, because “How else am I going to dive like a dolphin?!”. While most of our time is spent holding hands, she breaks away from time to time to dive and swirl nearby. Needless to say, she is beat after her workouts. Lily started out much more fearful but gains confidence with each stroke. She is afraid of the unknown coming around the corner, and Darwin most likely appreciates that.

After snorkeling we hauled anchor and motored on to Tahiti Beach once more, with our sights set on Marsh Harbour for Sunday, so that we could reprovision, take on fuel and water, and Andy could possibly find a spot to watch the Superbowl. Tahiti didn’t disappoint on round two- the kids kayaked in to their ‘treehouse’ (V got a tow since she was late on the uptake for taking off), and we adults brought sundowners and snacks to the beach.

Hitching’ a ride.

After a lovely and lazy Sunday morning of reading, playing games and stripping bunks and airing blankets (in heightened anticipation of also doing laundry in Marsh Harbour) we took off and headed that way.

Did I say lazy? I meant lovely because we finally have worker bees on board! Lily learns to polish…

We had a gorgeous sail, and I taught/reminded Lily how to make friendship bracelets while underway, by using a 20+ year old bracelet found in the embroidery floss bin as an example. We are both hooked, and pretty soon Andy is going to have a supersweet new bracelet. With fish on it!

1989 beginnings meet 2017 motivation.

Once safely anchored in Marsh Harbor (it’s a beautiful and giant harbor with plenty of room at the moment), we headed ashore with our laundry in search of finding the answers to our erranding questions. The first marina we asked was gracious enough to not only let us use their machines despite not being guests, but they also okayed the kids swimming in the pool and the adults lounging on their covered patio on the edge of the docks while doing so. Laundry was made all the easier by the fact that a) the kids were happy, b)Susanne and I sat at the bar next door and had a drink while we waited for the take out lunch we ordered for all, and c)Andy did all of the laundry. THIS is a ‘chore’ I’m beginning to like!

Hanging out.
Transom acrobatics.

Because the kids were happy and we had nothing better to do, they swam and swam and we sat and sat. Susanne and I eventually went for a walk, and discovered the giant store that we’d eventually do our provisioning (today), and then came back to the boat for a bit to unload laundry. We Allens went back ashore to find a place to watch the game, and though we did, and had a great dinner with a great view after doing so, we came home after the halftime show to mourn the loss of the Patriots (although, if I’m being honest, I wasn’t mourning anything other than footballers’ salaries vs. educators’/doctors’/researchers’, etc., like I do every time I watch a professional ball game, since I am Señorita Buzzkill).

Some Super Bowl, some craft.

The bars around the harbor were all showing the game, so sitting in the cockpit meant trying to determine the plays based on fans’ reactions (with help from Andy’s sister on his phone and my dear friend Frosty on mine). After one particularly loud hoo-rah just after the girls went to bed Lily came up and said “Did the Raccoons just win?”. It was nice to be able to tell her this morning that the Raccoons in fact did NOT win, and neither did the Falcons.

Curlytails, home of the giant lizard on our heads.

Monday’s routine must now begin, since we have a lot on our docket for the day: school, work, provisioning, moving to the fuel dock, and possibly heading out to Great Guana, though time-dependent we might stay here another night.

 

Off to the breakfast races!

Little Harbor

Well, I should have known better than to wax poetically about our fluffy and wonderful togetherness on the boat- so much of today was a DOOzy. There were definite perks, to be sure, but our long sun-filled days have apparently stacked up on us and worn everyone down in ways that ooze out sideways, upward, outboard and everywhere.

An oldie (from Hope Town) but a goodie: The Hair Shot. And Martin.

School is never my favorite part of the day, I’m the first to admit. I know that teaching young children was not a calling of mine that I missed, especially in a ‘classroom’ setting, and I definitely understand that teaching one’s own children can make that even harder. (Teachers, I’ll emphasize again: you are incredible and I will be forever in your debt. Full time homeschool moms: I’m not even sure how to explain my feelings about you, especially to you, and especially today.) All that said, school with the girls is generally just one of my tasks- logistically tricky in guiding a kindergartener and a fourth grader at the same time, and though I may have to curl my toes to exercise patience I don’t have in coercing kids to write journal entries, it’s still time that passes without much ado. Queue today: much ado. About math. The simple kind of math that is usually done in a blink right off the bat so that we can haggle over journal entries afterward. Upon reflection, Andy and I should have just recognized that Lily was exhausted and simply having a bad day. We should have let her take a break, read a book, anything, but in the absence of hindsight, and in response to her firmly set jaw and increasingly bad attitude, we didn’t give her an option other than to complete her pages. Silent, gigantic tears were shed, whining commenced in a set-in way that was more Violet’s style and therefore more jarring to see Lily using, and I felt trapped. In the end, she did the work begrudgingly, once the option of missing out on a snorkeling expedition was given, but not before we all turned sour.

Our day was ultimately a great one, don’t get me wrong or let me whine too much (Waaaaaa, problems. In purging my annoyance of today the irony of my frustrations while living in veritable paradise is not lost on me, I promise.), but obvious exhaustion took its toll. Two decent spills below within minutes tonight resulting in wet, sugary blankets and pillows (this is why we don’t give our kids juice more often!), a meltdown on the swim platform from V who didn’t want to dip off of the ladder to get the sand out of her hair before showering (this from a kid who was puckered and pruned from being in the water for 6 hours straight), Uno disagreements and holy smokes, bed time tonight was wonderful.

Conquering shore after a successful snorkel.

The UPsides to today were pretty great too, however. All four of us snorkeled for the first time this year, with fearless V charging ahead ready for action. Lily was apprehensive, as she was last year, (especially after seeing an eagle ray through our view-finder bucket from the dinghy, despite our attempts to remind her of their disinterest in 9 year olds), but she came along despite, and quickly realized that it was worth the nerve-y fuss. The swells were too large to keep us out too long, but what we did get to see was a great start, and we’re looking forward to stopping at Sandy Cay either tomorrow or Sunday, seas-dependent.

Happy place.

Our next stop was Pete’s Pub here on the harbor, and after a tasty lunch we lounged, visited and read on the beach while the kids played for hours in the sand and in their kayaks. That part: not so hard.

Kayak/paddle board- interchangeable for Lily.
Releasing Hermy, aka Cave, Violet’s hermit crab pet for the day.

Dinghying in we were gifted with the afternoon play session of a few dolphins, who swam and jumped in the harbor in and around the boats for quite a while. Quite a few turtle sightings today as well; add those to the eagle ray and the rainbow parrotfish we saw on the reef (a personal favorite) and our day’s fauna count was a good one!

Putting on a show.

Violet has decided that her stuffy owl (Owlie) and dog (Snowbutter) will be getting married tomorrow, so we spent the early evening in the cockpit designing wedding dresses and making crowns for Owlie. I offered my needle and thread (I was sewing a tie onto our bimini to hold a light up for the cockpit at night), but with scotch tape, scraps of fabric from our wedding tablecloths, and a lot of Yankee ingenuity she crafted quite the gown, complete with train. She said as she wrapped up: “Boy, do I have a lot of prep to do tomorrow for this thing!”. And then her giant container of markers and colored pencils spilled.

On that note, I should call it a day before I spill something onto my keyboard.

The gang at the end-of-the-day unload.